Modern Slavery or a Chance!

Most of us heard about terms like globalisation and child labour. But just a few of us might have seen it in real life and even less really recognise it. I have seen either in different places. Many times it made me think ‘Is it wright or wrong?’. What’s slavery and what’s a fair chance? What about the influence of culture and tourism?

Almost ten years ago I left Europe for the first time. Traveling to South America to my uncles place was not just a big adventure but also a cultural experience. For one month I was living on a property owned by a swiss but mostly run by locals. Locals coming from a lower class and working for middle/upper class people. The guys are doing hard field work and the girls take care on the kids, cook and clean. Most of them are living on the owners property in some simple housing and earn the minimum wage. Quite often not even registered so they won’t get the social insurances. Every forth night they might go home to see their parents, own children and friends. Otherwise they are supposed to stay at place and work for little money which is just enough to survive. Is this modern slavery or just a chance for the social weak ones to work?

Few years later in 2009 I traveled central/south America mostly by public transportation. Soon after my arrival in Guatemala I recognised all the children selling food on the buses and streets. In places with tourists they might also have sold some souvenirs to mostly western tourists. At some point my travel mate asked one of the 7-10 year old kid ‘Do you go to school?’. The answer was ‘Yes, in the evening. During day we have to work.’! In extrem cases those little cute children were even asking to get the chicken bones you had left on your plate in a restaurant! Like a dog! Begging and working for survival! Similar picture in many other countries I visited the following months in Central/South America. Would kids sell things if the tourists wouldn’t be there and who would feed them?

In 2012 I headed out again and it took me a while to see it again. Almost two years after my departure I arrived in Asia. Mongolia was the first place where I could recognise how kids where helping out their families with hard physical work. Such as sawing firewood, looking after the animals or producing cheese/yoghurt. In some families the dad was relaxing while the girls did the work!
Later on, in Myanmar I recognised teenagers which were working in tea plantation or even on construction grounds for new streets. Carrying gravel in wok pans to the spot they need it and that under the midday sun. Was it their choice or does something/someone make them to do it?

Back in Thailand I talked a bit to locals working in Hostels and Hotels. In the Hotel in Patong was a receptionist which is mum of a daughter. A daughter she didn’t see for 2 years. Originally from the north on the border to Laos where her kid lives with her mum. To earn money and send it back home she moved to the south. But the money for her might not be as big as the one her foreign boss might make with the business. She can’t effort to travel home to see her family!
In the hostel in Bangkok was a married couple working. Both originally from Myanmar but moved to Thailand for work when they were 14 and 19, respectively. He started to work in a fish factory and sent all the money home. At some point they changed to hospitality, became parents and brought the kid back to Myanmar. And since then … they never returned home again and keep sending the money back for their families. Slaves of tourism or just workers looking for a better life?

Before I headed home I spent another 2 months in Ukraine. Since my last visits in Spring’14 and Winter’13 things changed. The economics weren’t untouched by the conflict in the east. From winter’13 till spring’14 the countries currency – Hryvna – lost half of its value to the $. And till now -spring’15- it lost again and its worth a third compared to winter’13. Clinical research is a common business in Ukraine and many offices are owned by foreign companies making business in $. The locals working as clinical research associates and other jobs get mostly paid in Hryvna. But never since they have got an increase of salary! And business with the west keeps rolling while life becomes more expensive. Who keeps the lucky exchange bonus? Is this slavery in the name of the west or shall we call it outsourcing and globalisation?

What can we change or how can we influence it. Do we have a chance? What about the power of governments and multinational enterprises? Think about the cases and have a closer look next time, listen to them and make your thoughts. There might be a story behind the little boy on the corner begging for your attention.

Crossing the wilderness with a UAZ-452

Finally, we got picked up by our driver and its UAZ-452. An older Mongolian guy and its a bit younger soviet mini bus. Not sure how we get with this old school looking vehicle we were excited about the spacious interior. space for nine passengers but we were only the three of us. Wait … no first mission was to drop the horseman’s family in another town. The car got filled up. The ride through Olchon valley was bumpy but awesome. Nothing you could have called a road in the western world. Following random car tracks, crossing streams and move around rocks on the ground this car seemed to manage all the situations.
After the drop of our guests we headed off to the ancient capital of Mongolia – Karakorum.
This mission was about getting money to pay the car, gasoline as well as some food and no time for sight seeing. But we figured out that all the ATM’s where without of power, run out of money or just didn’t work with our cards. With the cash we had in our pockets we could pay for a meal and the petrol till Tsetserleg which we had to cross again.

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The drive to Tsetserleg was smooth most of the street was paved and in ‘ok’ condition. Happy to be back in a bigger place we rushed the ATM and from there straight into the next supermarket. Getting some real food we were missing so badly. Bread, jam and tea for breakfast. Noodles, sauces and vegetables for lunch and dinner. As well as some sweets for sure. Back in the car our driver brought us to a GIR camp. Got my own deluxe gir including a bathroom with out running water. However, there was a common shower with hot water. Yap, hot water after one week. It can be so nice;)
Slept like a baby that night. No smelly fire or cheese, nor weird noises from a yak or a whole family around you, just me. After the breakfast we headed out. ‘Quick’ stop at the gas station to get more fuel and to pay the bill. Needing some phone calls to clear things up we finally agreed how to pay. Fixed car price and gas on the go. Now our car journey had its official start.

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First destination was the Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake and the nearby volcano. On the way there we enjoyed the marvellousness views from the car. Lunch break was next to a canyon coming from the lake area. Just right on the edge of it, great but windy. On the menu was pasta with some canned food and for the driver some smelly Mongolian soup.

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Later in the afternoon we reached our last stop before going to a camp site. The volcano, in the middle of nowhere surrounded by all the boulders and rocks it was once spiting out which finally formed this amazing landscape just next to the lake. The short hike to the top was a welcoming exercise to the long sitting sessions in the car. Back down we headed to the lakeside to find a gir camp. Not really happy about the choice of our driver we were accepting his choice. A camp which looked like it was never used this season. Broken windows, broken infrastructure and empty tents.
Anyway, the location was great just next to the water site.

From now on the daily schedule looked like this: getting up, make breakfast and being ready around 9am. Enjoy some amazing landscapes, make lunch and get astonished again from the nature before arriving at the next camp.
On the third day this routine got interrupted when at once a metal noise was coming from underneath the car. Quickly we discovered the broken dumper hanging down. The fix was simple, take the whole thing off and keep going without it. Later in the afternoon we were shocked again by the vehicle and its consumption in the mountains. From ‘eco-friendly’ 18l/100km the consumption went up to unbelievable 40l/100km.
On the way to the camp site we refused to stay at the first one the driver wanted to go. It looked to abandoned. The next place was a guesthouse and looked much nicer. Also new on this site was the price negotiation for the gir. After I was mentioning that 20’000 MNT is too much for a bed I got told that this shall be for the whole gir. A game changer for the future, now we know.

The next day we were driving up to the north to stay at the Mongolian ocean – lake Khövsgöl Nuur. But before going shopping again in Murun and get some more gasoline. When we arrived at the lake site we recognised the numerous camp sites. Many of them were already partially taken down and ready for winter. And exactly to such one we went, grrrrr. All the infrastructure was already closed so we were looking to the one next to it. Offer: Hot shower, western style toilets and Sauna as well as ping pong. Just the first price was high. We managed to get the 120k down to 30k for a two bed tent.
Unfortunately, the offered horse ridding was not satisfying and so we went back to the neighbours. The morning after we had to figure out that this gir stayed quite warm during night and we decided to stay longer. My trip company left the camp by horse and I went for a walk.

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Later in the afternoon I got a visitor in the tent. A little marmot came along for a visit and to check our food. It came back for a couple of times to see if he could get something. After three nights on the site we started to head back to UB. A two day ride was in front of us. Getting another time gasoline in Murun and some more supplies for the way back we started a long day in the car. The ride started great. A smooth ride on a paved road at least for the first hour before our driver took a off-road track. Although, we returned to normal street since somebody wanted to use the paved road, at least it was marked like this. And soon we had to realise that the map of 2012 was inaccurate. The road was not finished and we ended up on a longer journey.
At lunch we discovered that the suspension of one front wheel was broken. From now on the driver had to be carefully and manoeuvre the car slowly through the nature. At some point he temporarily fixed the problem with a piece of wire. At 9pm we finally reached our night camp site. Somewhere near the unfinished road but in the middle of nowhere.

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Our departure got delayed on last time. The driver was fixing the suspension. This time with a rubber band which he wrapped around it. Thats how a Mongolian fix looks. The good thing on that day was that we soon ended up on a paved street which stayed like this till UB. The not so good fact was that we still had to go quite a bit and that the polish couple got nervous since they had a train that night.
On the way we passed huge corn fields and the mining city Erdenet which holds one of the biggest open pit cooper mines. We also passed a couple of accidents which reminded me on the condition of our spring blade. Finally we reached UB safely at least till that point. Just 1.5km before the hostel something else on the car started to make a weird noise. Broken again … this time it was the differential of the back axis. Murphy must love us .. since it was almost 7pm there was not much time left to get the train. Luckily the driver wasn’t faced the first time with this problem we could finish our road trip just after 7pm. Just in time.

Florence

Had to choose between Venice and Florence for my last stop before heading back to Zurich. After some discussions I went to Florence. The choice couldn’t have been better. Not just the place but also the weather seemed to be nice. The only problem was the picked hostel. They didn’t seem to be friendly so I had to spend some time to find the second choice but finally the much better one.
Got my dorm, even a normal bed and not a bunk, dropped my things and headed out the first time. Was quite surprised by the old town. Didn’t expected such a beauty.

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Perhaps the most remarkable building in the whole city might be this basilica with all the marble on the facade. Some other churches around the old town where supposed to get such a facade too but they run out of money at that time and they didn’t get a facade to cover the stone walls.

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The most interesting places might be between this famous bridge which doesn’t feel like a bridge at the moment you approach it and cross it on the street. All the little houses on it are gold jewelry. Since 500 year the traditional business on the bridge. Before that they used to be a butchers places but they all were sent away to bring the luxury business there for the rich ones.

There are many squares and streets with interesting old buildings. From palaces, to churches and city halls. There are also some nice parks just out side of the old town. Something I missed to do was to climb the nearby hill and have a look down to the center of Florence.

Italy seems to be a good place to meet other travelers and so I had a awesome time with my friends from the hostel. Quite interesting was that in the hostel stayed so many individual travelers from Argentina. Thanks to everybody for the awesome time together during day time as well night time 🙂

Istanbul – The gate to middle east

Istanbul was meant to be my temporary final travel destination to reconsider my plans. But at the time I arrived here I realized that there would be many interesting places in this country. And even better, Georgia was in reach in the far east. But I just arrived so fist discover the place and then reconsider.
Unfortunately I have to say that Istanbul is not one of those places I really like. Too busy, too many tourists and people here are like pirates! Hunting for tourists, trying to pull you inside of restaurants. It feels like they all hunt for the same treasure which I won’t be. Despite that, the city has many interesting corners to discover as well as great ancient architecture and historical sights.

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One of the main sight the mosque of Sophia. In the heart of the Sultanahmet district which is the hot spot for tourists. Somehow I like this mosque more during night time as day time. Its also much quieter during night than day. Somehow all the tourists disappear as soon as it gets dark. Even the restaurants are quite soon empty compared to other places!

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There are many mosques in Istanbul this is another one. the Suleymaniye mosque high above the water. Great views from here over to Galata area. Not that touristy and nice spot to enjoy the atmosphere and chill a bit.

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The Galata bridge is a movable bridge and its only opened to water traffic during night time. During day time it is another main sight and quite busy. Loads of fish restaurant on the lower level and on top level many fishermen.

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Once crossed the bridge you are in the area around the Galata Tower and the Istiklal street. Another hot spot packed with locals and international folk. A street full of boutiques and restaurants.

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A more traditional way to shop is the grand bazar. Huge market inside of a huge complex. To walk through the market feels like in a maze. A maze of clothes, bling bling and spices.

I enjoyed my stay here but was also looking forward to leave it for another place. Too busy and somehow too unfriendly the people on the street. Areas around the hot spots are already much nicer but still this city is just a too big place for me. Wanted to travel turkey a bit more but for the moment I decided to head back to Switzerland. So next destination its a bit a unconventional one … by plane over to Greece.

Metro on tyre

Recently I recognized a strange noise in the metro. Somehow the noise was familiar to me and I had to check the metro cars.


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For what are those metal plates on the sides of the rails? Looks strange …

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Aha the trains run on tyre and as wiki knows they also have ordinary metal wheels for safety and switches.

New horizons

Do you now the feeling of wanna discover the world. Day dreaming of things you have seen or heard. Places you wanna see and touch. Thats how I felt at the time I decided to quit my job and flat for travels and to find a new place abroad.

This time there will be only one way tickets no returns. There is also no fixed place to go to except that I might stick to europe cos of Schengenen room which makes it simpler to find work. To find a suitable place to live for a while I will travel. How long … I don’t know now. For a moment, a moment which will take a while.

Start is the end of September, first destination is still open. But I might start by train and move to the north of europe. Maybe I will try to get to russia and later on to china. And from there maybe to Lhasa. It can all be done by train which is pretty cool. But I will see …

If you have any comments, ideas or general input just give a shout. Would also be nice if one or another has some ideas about a place to go next. Keep following 🙂

From Tallinn to Pirita by bike

Most tourists return home without a sniff into the suburbs of Tallinn. A path which some historical information about Tallinn and Estonia is the way to Pirita – sailing competitions of the olympic games 1980 in Moscow were held here.

old city hall of Tallinn

… and we are just half way up to the top/end of the city hall. Not really a nice construction but some how an interesting place. The whole thing is in a quit bad condition and for that its not used anymore.

song competition ground

On the tower you have the olympic fire place from the 1980 games. The big stage is about the yearly hold Estonian Song Festival.

art museum

The home of the art museum. The building is quite nice but as many in someway in a bad state.

modern architecture in suburbs of Tallinn

One the cycle tour you will pass by on some memorials for second world war and other things. But you also cross some places with newly build buildings which look awesome.

So if you will go to Tallinn take some extra time to leave the city center and head out into the suburbs. During summer time you will be also able to take a bath in the finish golf on a sand beach. Right now it was a bit chilly so we let that out …