Another trip away from Kiev this time to the west near to the Moldavian / Romanian border to a city called Chernivtsi. A place with a quarter million inhabitants which Ukrainians call to be like a european city. My hostel was truly just a short stroll away from the station. On the way there you already could recognise that the Austrian-Hungarian empire left its traces.
Just after my check-in in the hostel all the guests were offered to join the british owner to an excursion to his second Hostel in Kam’yanets’-Podil’s’kyi including the transportation. A nearby place famous for its medieval fortification. Couldn’t be better since it was on my plan to go there for one day.
The road to this rather small soviet city with its historical old town was kind of bumpy. To the first time I saw really bad roads. I mean really bad ones. The beginning and end were kind of nice or ok but in the middle there was a section which cars moved to either site of the street just to move around the huge pot holes. Luckily we had an original british LandRover which did his job and brought us safely to Kam’yanets’-Podil’s’kyi.
The hostel is based just a short walk away from the main sight around old town. The old town its quite small and in a few minutes you have seen most of the things.
There are two monasteries around which shall be connected with a tunnel. One is occupied by nuns the other one by monks. At the monastery of the nuns is a catholic church based which has kind of a funny tower. A minaret its on the churches side! Originally built as catholic church it became a muslim place and later on a catholic church again.
The new part of the city its a typical soviet place. A few parks with soviet like monuments and the infamous concrete buildings. And as usual are there also abandoned places in the middle of town. We just stayed 24h which was far enough to see the fortress, old town as well as new town. Next day we headed back over the bumpy road to Chernivtsi.
And finally I found what I was missing in other places in Ukraine. A pedestrian street former calle ‘Herrengasse’ going through the old town. Full of small cafes and european like restaurants. Surrounded by historical buildings which are kept in a great condition.
The city was influenced by the Austrian Hungarian empire as well as by Romanian culture. But one of the University buildings looked more likely it was build by some english architect. Most important buildings around the centre and the parks around them are in great shape. It kind of surprised me since in other parts of Ukraine people don’t care that much about property. i still wonder who comes up for all the maintenance and restoration since there is not that much tourism around.
As soon as you leave the centre Chernivtsi becomes more of a Soviet place. Abandoned buildings, parks are wilder and more and more nine story apartment buildings show up. And as usual some industrial complex between them which from many are abandoned.
During my stay in Chernivtsi I got the chance to meet the family of Mischa. Thank you again for the city tour and nightly walk as well as for the delicious home made Borsch and berry pie. Not to forget the Ukrainian BBQ party after the elections.
